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ALTO

总会有不期而遇的温暖和希望。

 
 
 

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Sprite  

2009-09-15 22:02:00|  分类: 图解类 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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Sprite - badupiano - 你我皆烦人,剩在人世间。
Gauge:
24 sts to 3.25 inches in the honeycomb pattern or
21 sts to 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round


Materials:

I will recommend to use wool yarn with bounce and good stitch definition as we are talking cables here :p
My yarn recommendations: Zara from Filatura di Crosa, Drops Extra fine Merino, Extra fine Merino DK from Berroco (just to give an idea, but not to limit to)

3, 3, 4, 5 balls of any dk wool (125 yards per ball). I have used Zara.
And if you are going to work with 2 colors then 1 ball of the contrast color yarn
3 mm circular needles (60 cm length or 24")
4 mm circular needles (60 cm and 80 cm)
2 stitch holders
2 different color stitch markers
3 mm crochet hook

Abbreviations:

kfb = knit into the front and back of the stitch
pbf = purl into the back and front of the stitch
C3B = slip 3 stitches on holder and hold to the back, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3 from holder
C3F = slip 3 stitches on holder and hold at the front, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3 from holder
C2B = slip 2 stitches on holder and hold to the back
C1F = slip 1 stitch on holder and hold to the front
1x1 rib = *knit 1, purl 1*
ssk = slip 1 st knit wise, knit next one, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
yo= yarn over needle

Method:

Since we need live stitches, then you can use on of the following two methods to cast on:

1. Provisional cast on: using a crochet hook make a chain of #of stitches for your size + 10. Then pick up stitches from the chain.
2. Cast on the number of stitches you need in scrap yarn, then switch to main yarn and knit a row, joining in the round at the end.

With either method, using 3 mm needles pick up or knit 124 (136, 148, 156) sts. Place marker, join in the round.
Then with the main yarn, knit a round and place a second marker after 62 (68, 74, 78) sts to mark middle of the work. Latter both markers will be used to separate front and back.
Knit 8 (10, 10, 14) rnds in 1x1 rib.
The 2 color option shown here (knit 1 round in main color, then 1 rnd in contrast color, etc, finishing with main color).
Switch to bigger needles. Knit this round and evenly increase by 20 (20, 20, 24 sts), ie kfb into every 6-7th stitch or so. So that you have 144 (156, 168, 180) sts.

Start Honeycomb Pattern:

Rnd 1-4: p2, *k2, p4*. Repeat * till last 4 sts, k2, p4
Rnd 5: C2B, k1, purl 2 from holder, *C1F, p2, knit 1 from holder, C2B, k1, p2 from holder*. Repeat * till last 3 sts, C1F, p2, knit 1 from holder
Rnd 6-10: k1, *p4, k2*. Repeat * till last 5 sts, p4, k1
Rnd 11: C1F, p2, k1 from holder, *C2B, k1, p2 from holder, C1F, p2, k1 from holder*. Repeat * till last 3 sts, C2B, k1, p2 from holder
Rnd 12: as Rnd1

On Rnd 12, knit in pattern to last 6 sts. Bind them off purl wise. Remove the marker, and bind off 6 more sts purlwise(ie 12 sts bound off).

Starting new round count.
Rnd1: Knit in pattern (rnd 1 of honeycomb) to 6 sts before the second marker, bind them off purl wise, remove marker and bind off 6 more sts purl wise(another 12 sts bound off), knit in pattern to the end of the round.
From now on both front and back will be knitted separately and identically. Total number of stitches for each piece now should be 60 (66, 72, 78) sts.

The rest of the instructions are given round by round for more clarity.

Front:

Row 2 (WS): Knit first 2 sts, purl all the purl stitches and knit all the knit stitches to the last 2 sts, knit 2. This will apply to every wrong side row.
Row 3 (RS): k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2.
Row 5: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 7: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 9: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2 (8 sts have been decreased, 4 on each side)
Total stitch count at this point is 52 (58, 64, 70) sts.

For sizes 1-2T and 2-3T only:


Row 11: k2, *pattern*, k2.
Row 13: k2, *pattern*, k2.
Row 15: k2, *pattern*, k2.

For size 3-4T and 4-6T only:

Row 11: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 13: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 15: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. (total 14 sts have been decrease, 7 on each side. This count includes the decrease from row 3-9)

For all sizes:

Row 17: k2, *pattern*, k2
Row 18: as Row2
Total stitch count at this point is 52 (58, 58, 64) sts
At this point the bodice should measure about 3 (3, 3.75, 3.75) inches from the start of the Honeycomb pattern.

Row 19 (RS): k2, pattern next 12 sts, p2tog, knit next 22 (28, 28, 34) sts in 1x1 rib starting with knit stitch, pattern next 12 sts, k2
Row 21: as row 19
Row 23: k2, pattern next 12 sts, k2, bind off purl wise 19 (25, 25, 31) sts, k2, pattern next 12 sts, k2
Row 24 (will be starting to knit right shoulder strap over 16 sts): k2, purl purls and knit knits, k2
Work those 16 sts (don't forget to always knit first 2 sts and last 2 sts) till the armhole measures 4 (4.5, 5, 5.5) inches from the cast off underarm stitches.
Leave stitches on holder.
Left shoulder strap: with the wrong side facing, reattach yarn. And repeat as for the right shoulder strap starting with row 24.

Back: repeat as for the front piece.

At this point either sew shoulder straps together, graft, or do a 3-needle bind off.

Skirt:

Unravel waste yarn and pick up 124 (136, 148, 156) sts. Place marker and join in the round.
Knit next round and evenly increase 6 (4, 2, 4) sts so that the total number of stitches comes to 130 (140, 150, 160) sts.
The skirt will be divided into 10 sections, with each section containing 13 (14, 15, 16) sts.
The cable will be a part of each section. The cable motif is worked over 6 sts, so that there are 7 (8, 9, 10) sts between each cable.
Before starting cablework and knitting the skirt, MOVE MARKER 3 STS BACKWARDS!

Now you are ready to start.

Rnd1-2 (set up rounds): *purl 7 (8, 9, 10) sts, knit 6*
Rnd 3: *purl 7 (8, 9, 10) sts, C3F 9knit 3, then knit 3 form holder)*
Rnd 4 (will also contain first increase): *pbf, purl 5 (6, 7, 8), pbf, knit 6* (20 sts increased)
Rnd 5-8: *purl 9 (10, 11, 12), knit 6*
Rnd 9: *purl 9 (10, 11, 12), C3B (k3, then 3 from holder)*
Rnd 10-14: *purl 9 (10, 11, 12), knit 6*

Repeat the increase round 2 more times. Each increase is at approximately 2 (2.5, 3, 4) inches intervals. Rnd4 is not going always be an increase round. If it is not an increase round, it is knitted as Rnds 5-8. There are total 3 sets of increases, each increasing the count by 20 sts (total 60 sts increased). If you want the skirt to be fuller, you can do more increases and space them more closely.

Repeat Rnds 3-14 till the skirt measures 5.5 (7, 8, 10) inches from the lower edge of 1x1 rib at the waste. End with either Rnd 3 or 9.

Hemline version 1 (shown here):

The center of the ruffle will be the middle 2 sts of the 6 knitted stitches.

Rnd 1: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), yo, k2, yo, * purl 19, yo, k2, yo* till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 2: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), k4, * purl 19, k4, * till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 3: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), yo, k4, yo, * purl 19, yo, k4, yo* till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 4: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), k6, * purl 19, k6, * till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 5: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), yo, k6, yo, * purl 19, yo, k6, yo* till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 6: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), k8, * purl 19, k8, * till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 7: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), yo, k8, yo, * purl 19, yo, k8, yo* till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 8: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), k10, * purl 19, k10, * till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 9-10: as Rnd 8

If you are using 2 colors, then switch to contrast color at this point.
Knit one round
Purl next round.
Bind off loosely in knit wise manner.
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